Surf's up!

The sun was shining, the sky was blue, what more did I need to get out to the ocean. So I put my surfboard in my car and went. And when I got there, I was the only one there. Not a good sign. But the waves were huge, and soon the locals started turning up. I was stoked to have some company in the water. So toe dipped in, and off I went. It actually wasn't that cold, but the tow was really strong. And of course the waves got bigger since tide was coming in. Soon I was in over my head being tossed and turned and covering my head and face while submerged in darkness. Coming up for air only to be hit by another wave. Salt water in my lungs, sand in my ears, I washed up on shore. I stood there, in awe of the power that tossed me like a rag doll. Shaking off the fear from being rocked. I managed to go back into the water, but not for long. My day was cut short, mostly because the waves got bigger and more choppy, and the tow almost knocked my feet out. Guess that first day back rusty thing is not meant to be tried during high tide.
But tomorrow, I'm gonna do it all again!